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• Bhutan has been the #1 country I have wanted to visit since 2012 – when our family member, Donna Day, shared her trip to Bhutan with me.  Finally made it, 12 years later!
• KINDNESS, KINDNESS, KINDNESS!!!  The Bhutanese people are the kindest, most helpful, compassionate, and humble people we have ever met.  Quoting author Linda Leaming, “Kindness is the glue that holds Bhutanese society together.”
• The small south-central Asian country, located on the eastern ridges of the Himalya Mountains, is landlocked between China (Tibet) and India.  It is about the size of Switzerland and half the size of the state of South Carolina.  It is called “The Land of the Thunder Dragon”.  The average elevation is 10,760 feet.  The highest point is 24,840 feet.  793,000 people live in the entire country.  The capital, Thimpu, is the largest city in the country with a population of approximately 115,000.  There are immigration regulations to keep national traditions intact and to care for the Bhutanese people. There are many dialects in the country, however, Dzongkha is the official and national language.  English is taught in school and many people spoke good English.  The main industries include hydropower (sold to India), cement, wood products, calcium carbide, apples, oranges, cardamom, potatoes, asparagus, mushrooms, and tourism. Bhutanese currency in the country started in the 1960s.  Prior to that goods and services were bartered as there was no paper money.   Ancient teachings are passed on through festivals and other events that tell stories of their ancestry.  Bhutanese dress in festive costumes, some with masks and created detailed recreations and dances that entertain and bestow onto others the Bhutanese spiritual life story.
• The current 44-year-old King, Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck, became the fifth king in December 2006.  One of the first things the young king did was implement a modern constitution and create the legal framework for a democratic multi-party system (as he wanted to protect the people in the event there was a king, in the future, that did not prioritize the best interests of the people).  The country held its first general election for the national assembly in 2008.  The king is the head of state, and executive power is vested in the cabinet, headed by the prime minister.  The king and the royal family are loved and admired.  The royal family’s picture is hanging everywhere inside and outside homes and businesses, and many people wear button pins with their picture on it.  These are some of the things the king said during his coronation speech (I want every leader in the world to embrace and exemplify this philosophy!):    

Our most important goal is the peace and happiness of our people and the security and sovereignty of the nation. 

              Throughout my reign I will never rule you as a King.  I will protect you as a parent, care for you as a brother and serve you as a son.  I shall give you everything and keep nothing.  I shall live such a life as a good human being that you may find it worthy to serve as an example for your children; I have no personal goals other than to fulfill your hopes and aspirations.  I shall always serve you, day and night, in the spirit of kindness, justice and equality. 

              I end with a prayer for Bhutan – that the sun of peace and happiness may forever shine on our people.  I also pray that while I am but King of a small Himalayan nation, I may in my time be able to do much to promote the greater wellbeing and happiness of all people in this world – of all sentient beings. 

• The current king’s father said that the Gross National Happiness (GNH) is more important than Gross Domestic Product (GDP).  The four foundation pillars are:  conservation of the environment, equitable and sustainable development, good governance, and preservation of culture.  It is a holistic approach that considers the spiritual, emotional, and cultural needs of society in addition to material wellbeing.  Every household is visited once a year and asked questions regarding living standards, health, education, environment, community, time-use, psychological wellbeing, governance, and culture.  

• Bhutan is the world’s first carbon negative country, meaning it offsets more carbon than it emits.  About 51% of the total land area is legally protected and the constitution mandates that at least 60% forest cover be maintained. 
• Buddhism is the state religion of Bhutan and is practiced by around 80% of the population.  It is a land of magic, myths, traditions and rituals.  Prayer flags (symbolizing long life, prosperity, happiness, and luck) are hung high across the country sending continual prayers, spread by the wind, promoting peace and prosperity for everyone.  Prayer wheels are found all over the country to help focus the mind, increase merit and relieve the suffering of all living beings.  Older individuals are honored and revered.  They do what is best for the children…including having children live with relatives or friends in a different town than their parents to get the best education.  Education and health care are free to everyone.  There is a focus on balance in all things – they try to avoid extremes, there are few millionaires and beggars. 
• Many of the younger generations are migrating to Canada and Australia for education and professional opportunities.  Like most places, the younger generations want to be innovative, creative, unique, and try new ways of living that are different from local traditions or culture.  Historically, Bhutan has not allowed outside investors (there are no McDonald’s, Burger Kings, KFCs, etc.).  The king is forward thinking and a visionary.  In December 2023, he announced his plan for creating Gelephu, the mindfulness city.  The intent is to encompass conscious and sustainable businesses, inspired by Buddhist spiritual heritage, and distinguished by the uniqueness of the Bhutanese identity.  It will be a special administrative region, envisioned as a knowledge economy that balances sustainability and well-being with prosperity, and an incubator for excellence in art, innovation, and entrepreneurship.  It would be an economic hub that would propel the rest of Bhutan and the entire south Asian region toward greater progress and prosperity.  Perhaps this will incent the younger generations to stay in Bhutan. 
• Chilis are the main ingredient in dishes (and dang the food is spicy!) and they dry it on tin roofs. Archery is the national sport.  Buckwheat is plentiful (I love buckwheat pancakes, which I didn’t find but I found Hoentey – my favorite Bhutanese dish – and buckwheat cookies!).  They know how to fill plastic water bottles to the top; you seriously can’t get another single drop of water in the bottle and it’s nearly impossible to twist off the cap without spilling water.  Many restaurants give you a pen and paper for you to write down your order.

• Roses seem to grow everywhere!
• Many locals wear the traditional dress – men wear ghos (knee length robes with black knee socks and black shoes) and women wear kiras (long skirts, typically paired with a short jacket).  Traditional dress is required for government workers, taxi drivers, and tour guides.
• The driving age is 18 years old. That is also the same age at which alcohol can be consumed legally.
• Arranged marriages still take place, however it is not the norm. 
• Everyone is addressed as “madam, ma’am, or sir”.  The Bhutanese do the ‘head wobble’ (like they do in India and Nepal), which basically means “ok”. 
• There are no traffic lights in the entire country.  The busiest intersection in Thimpu has calm and quiet (no whistle) traffic police.  Drivers are extremely considerate of pedestrians and always give them the right of way (I never felt like I might get hit crossing a street!).  The taxis were immaculate (I never felt like I needed to take a shower after getting out of one!).  There are few motorbikes.  Many cars are Suzuki or Indian manufacturers.  They drive on the left side of the road. I love the road signs. 

• The airport in Paro is beautiful.  It is one of the most difficult landing airports in the world, with surrounding peaks as high as 18,000 ft.  Special training is required to land there and only about 20 pilots are certified.  The craftsmanship and architecture are gorgeous.  Furniture is made of quality, sturdy, heavy wood.

• TV was banned in Bhutan until 1999 (although some people bought television sets and rented movies, a few even bought expensive and illegal satellite dishes to tap into India’s cable channels).  The Bhutanese government feared TV and the internet would corrupt the Buddhist way of life in the country.  The first show broadcast was that of the 1998 World Cup Final in France. 
• Bhutan opened to tourism in 1974.  In addition to paying for a Visa, foreigners traveling to Bhutan must pay a daily Sustainable Development Fee (SDF) of $100 US (a special rate until 2027 when it is supposed to return to a $200 US daily tax) to help with the country’s ‘high value, low volume’ approach to tourism. The SDF is used to protect the natural environment as well as provide free education and health care.  Neighboring foreigners from India, pay $15 US per day (there are a lot of Indian tourists in Bhutan!).  The country fully closed its borders to foreigners for almost two years during COVID.  When they started welcoming visitors again in September 2022, they changed some of their tourism rules.  Up until 2022, you couldn’t travel independently within Bhutan.  You were required by the government to submit your proposed itinerary in advance for approval.  You had to be accompanied by a Bhutanese tour guide throughout your time in the country and you would also have a driver assigned to you.  Many tourists and even locals are not aware of the changes made in 2022.  Every single day someone asked us “where is your guide?”, and they were shocked we were traveling independently.  There are some things that do require a guide, and you can hire someone to do that specific activity with you.  Foreigners are allowed to rent cars; however, they must hire a licensed Bhutanese driver and cannot drive the car themselves.  We prefer independent travel – we like to be in control of our itinerary.  We like to interact with the locals directly.  We also understand by not having a guide, we sacrifice learning from their valuable knowledge.    
• We asked one person what they think of when they hear ‘America’.  He said he thinks about the American flag, the White House, and eagles. 
• Phalluses are common sights in Bhutan, and you can’t help but notice penises of all sizes displayed throughout the country.  The phallus represents protection from evil and good fortune in the Bhutanese culture, as well as a symbol of fertility.  Phalluses are revered by the Bhutanese people.  They are colorfully painted or carved.  They are drawn on the walls of homes or hang from eaves of houses.  Children wear small penises around their necks.  Souvenir shops are filled with all kinds of penis options to buy, from key chains to wall hangings, to decorative shelf art.   

• Chewing doma is a deeply embedded tradition in Bhutanese society. It is used by men and women of all ages, although apparently its use is declining in the younger generation. It is said that chewing it is a mild stimulant producing a warming sensation and slightly heightened alertness.  Doma is composed of the areca nut wrapped in betel leaves and normally mixed with lime (as in limestone).  The combination produces a red smile as it makes the chewers mouth and teeth red.  We were offered to try it and declined.  😊

• There are so many spiritual practices in the country.  We saw Tsa Tsas (miniature stupas) carefully positioned on mountainsides and by prayer wheels.  Each Tsa Tsa is a sacred object and has its own story – it may be an ancient prayer for the well-being of a living or deceased loved one.  They are believed to prevent disasters, cure illness, and provide atonement.  They serve as a visual reminder of the Buddha’s teachings and the path to enlightenment.  In dedication to loved ones, many families of the deceased will thoughtfully choose the perfect spot to erect 108 tall wooden poles with long white cloths, each one covered in prayers written in small black script to the Bodhisattva of Compassion.  As the cloths move in the wind, the prayers are carried across the countryside.  You can see the flags scattered across the hillside.

• This is the first place we visited where we observed rice fields being harvested.  Most of the fields we saw were harvested by hand, which consists of cutting the crop using sickles and knives, letting it dry, threshing the stalks, cleaning, hauling, and bagging.  It’s hard work!  In all the rice fields that we passed, we only saw a total of two machines being used.  One that chopped the rice stalks and a more sophisticated machine used in a different field which chopped the rice stalks and also threshed the rice. 

• The weather was comfortable with very little rain while we were there from October 7 – 23^rd. 
• Our blood pressure was higher than normal, which we attribute to the elevation.
• I felt safe everywhere.  However, I felt very uncomfortable walking by myself in Paro on a Sunday evening at dusk.  Many Indians are employed to do construction and other labor jobs in Bhutan.  During my walk, I noticed that the town was filled with Indian men shopping.  I assumed they came to town on their day off to get supplies and food.  Groups of 5 – 10 men were standing together outside shops.  Every time I walked by one of the groups, I could feel all of them staring at me.  I stayed on the busy streets and only walked for 40 minutes, instead of the 60 minutes I had planned to walk.
• In just 16 short days, Bhutan touched my heart in a way that I am unable to put into words.  Observing and interacting with the locals has prompted me to think about life, the collective world, and the importance of compassion and kindness.  I am beyond grateful for spending time with and learning from all the incredible local people we met, including Deo, Pema, Linda, Namgay, Chemba, Kinley & his family, Sonam Chhoden, Tashi, and Sagar and Martha’s family.  Each of them will always hold a special place in my heart and I hope to see them in Bhutan when we visit again.  Attending Kinley’s family’s annual choku at their house was a true honor, a once in a lifetime experience, and the memory will live on in my mind forever.  (A choku is a religious ceremony performed by a monk or lama to appease household deities.  Prayers are chanted giving thanks for the blessings of the past year along with prayers to ensure well-being in the future.  Spiritual leaders beat drums and blow horns during the daylong event.)  I leave Bhutan with a heavy heart, as I am sad to leave this amazing country and the very special Bhutanese people.  And at the same time, I leave with a heart bursting with gratitude and joy for the privilege of being here and all the inconceivable experiences. 

• I want to put Bhutan in bubble wrap and keep it exactly as it is forever!  I want the palatable calm and peaceful energy in Bhutan to exist until the end of time (and I want it to spread throughout the world).   I want to stay in Bhutan for much longer (until they kick me out…however, it does cost us $200 a day just to be there and it is important for us to live within our budget). 

• Recommended books:
  • Married to Bhutan:  How One Woman Got Lost, Said I Do, and Found Bliss by Linda Leaming
  • A Field Guide to Happiness:  What I Learned in Bhutan about Living, Loving, and Waking Up by Linda Leaming
  • Buttertea at Sunrise by Britta Das