Greenland Observations

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  • Greenland is part of North America.  It is the largest island in the world that is not a continent.  Greenland is surrounded by the Arctic Ocean, Atlantic Ocean, Greenland Sea, and Baffin Bay.  80% of it is within the Arctic Circle.  It is 180 miles west of Iceland, about 16 miles east of Canada’s Arctic Archipelago, and South of the North Pole.  Norway is 850 miles away and it is 2,000 miles from Denmark. Greenland is about three times the size of Texas.  There are 100 named islands within the country, along with many unnamed islands. 
  • 80% of the country is covered by the Greenland Ice Sheet, the second largest ice sheet in the world after Antarctica.  In places, the ice is almost 2 miles thick.  The ice currently makes up almost half of the freshwater in the northern hemisphere.  The ice sheet contains so much frozen fresh water that if it all melted the global sea level would rise by about 23 feet.  Ice-free land has permafrost and the ground remains frozen for most of the year. Scientists have found hidden canyons, lakes, and mountain ranges beneath the ice sheet.  Around 450,000 years ago the landmass was warmer, and traces have been found in southern Greenland of forests containing pine, fir, yew and alder trees.  There are also genetic traces of butterflies, moths, flies, and beetles. 
  • The country has glaciers, mountain ranges, deep fjords, a steep and rugged coastline (often inaccessible by land), tundra with hardy vegetation (in areas where the ice has retreated), and a small southern area that is relatively green in summer and supports some limited agriculture (sheep farming, hay, potatoes, turnips, lettuce, radishes, and cabbage – some communities use heated greenhouses).  The highest point is in east Greenland – Gunnbjørn Fjeld, which rises to an elevation of 12,119 feet. 
  • Sermeq Kujalleq is the fastest moving glacier in the northern hemisphere, with the ice flow moving approximately 140 feet a day.  If you were to melt the yearly ice mass which Sermeq Kujalleq calves, there would be enough water to provide for the USA’s yearly water usage.  You only see a very small part of an iceberg as 90% of it is hidden under the surface of the water.  The largest icebergs are up to 328 feet above the surface of the water.  The largest Greenlandic icebergs take three to four years to melt.  They can drift as far south as the sea off the coast of New York City before melting entirely.  On a few occasions, Greenland’s largest icebergs have drifted all the way to Bermuda and Ireland.  The infamous iceberg hit by the Titanic likely came from Greenland. 
  • The first known settlers were part of the Paleo-Inuit migration, which likely originated in Alaska and migrated eastward.  They arrived in Greenland over 4,500 years ago (around 2500 BCE).  They came from what is now Canada, crossing over via the Canadian Arctic Archipelago into northern and western Greenland.  90% of Greenlanders identify as Inuit. 
  • Greenland was named by the Norse explorer Erik the Red around 982 CE.  He called the land Greenland, saying that people would be eager to go there if it had a good name. One of the greatest marketing ploys!  (And their neighboring country, which is green, was named Iceland!)
  • For hundreds of years, Greenland was under Danish authority, which began with the arrival of a Danish/Norwegian Lutheran missionary priest named Hans Egede in 1721.  During colonization and Christianization (18th–20th centuries), local Inuit practices including tattooing were discouraged or banned by missionaries.  Today a cultural revival is underway in Greenland and across the Arctic.  Young Inuit women are reclaiming their sacred heritage, spiritual beliefs and identity with tattoos. Their current day culture includes traditional drum dancing, throat singing and mask dancing.  We saw local traditional clothing in the museum in Ilulissat.  This type of dress is still worn today for special occasions and festivals.
  • In the 1960s and 1970s, as many as 4,500 women and girls (half of the fertile women in Greenland according to Danish authorities) were subjected to forced sterilization by government physicians, using painful intrauterine devices.  This was done as Denmark city planners wanted to limit Greenland’s population growth. 
  • Block P in Nuuk, was the largest residential building in the country and a powerful symbol of both urbanization and social challenges.  It was built in the 1960s with over 300 apartments.  It was part of Denmark’s plan to modernize Greenland by moving people from small coastal villages into urban centers.  Residents often had little say in being relocated there and struggled as their traditional Inuit lifestyles were uprooted.  It was overcrowded and poorly maintained.  It became associated with poverty, social isolation, and mental health issues.  Many Greenlanders viewed it as an unwanted legacy of colonial policies.  It was demolished in 2012, after years of public criticism and debate.  Its removal was seen as a step toward reclaiming urban space and moving toward more human-centered, culturally sensitive housing.  Today, Block P is remembered as a powerful lesson in the importance of culturally respectful development.
  • Greenland is now an autonomous territory within the Kingdom of Denmark. While it’s not an independent country, Greenland has significant autonomy and governs most of its internal affairs.  Greenland has a parliamentary system of government with self-rule under the Kingdom of Denmark. The legal voting age is 18 years old.  Denmark is responsible for Greenland’s defense and security.  There are no standing Greenlandic armed forces.  The Danish military handles defense duties, including the presence of some Danish forces stationed in Greenland, mainly for Arctic sovereignty and search-and-rescue operations.  The United States has a strategic military presence through Thule Air Base in northern Greenland.  We asked a Danish man who lives in Ilulissat what the locals think about Trump’s position to acquire control of Greenland.  He said the locals have thought this was a possibility since World War II.  Trump has just been more direct and vocal about it.  As we have heard in the media, Greenlanders do not want to become part of the United States.
  • The museum in Ilulissat had an English copy of “Greenland in the World; Nothing about Us without Us, Greenland’s Foreign, Security and Defense Policy 2024 – 2033, an Arctic Strategy”.  It’s an interesting read:  Greenlands_Foreign_-Security_and_Defense_Policy_2024_2033.pdf
  • The weather is Arctic and subarctic – it’s generally very cold, with long, harsh winters and short, cool summers.  In the winter temperatures can plunge below minus 22 degrees Fahrenheit with very little daylight (some places experience polar night with no sun for weeks or months).  Summer temperatures are typically 41 – 59 degrees Fahrenheit and parts of Greenland experience the midnight sun, with 24 hours of daylight for several weeks. It is often windy.  When we were here in August we had a feels like range of 17 to 50 degrees Fahrenheit.  We teased that a really nice summer day in Greenland was a really cold winter day in Florida.  Avalanches are common in mountainous areas, seasonal floods can happen from rapid snowmelt or heavy rain, rockslides may occur from glacial destabilization, glacial calving can create local waves and tsunami hazards near the coast.  Although Greenland is not very seismically active, they can have moderate quakes (usually < magnitude 6), which can then cause tsunamis.
  • There are few trees.  Before wood was imported it came from drift wood and ship wrecks. 
  • Greenland has the lowest population density of any country in the world.  There are approximately 56,000 people living in Greenland with 20,000 of them living in the capital city of Nuuk.  Sisimiut is the 2nd largest town with about 5,600 and Ilulissat is the 3rd largest town with around 4,700 people.  About 11% of the population is from Denmark.  There is a growing community of immigrants from the Philippines and Thailand working in the service industry.  We asked a local what she thought about immigration in Greenland.  She said she prefers the Filipino community because they try to speak Greenlandic.  She does not particularly care for the Danish as they expect locals to speak to them in Danish. 
  • Greenland is currently experiencing a significant housing shortage, particularly in urban areas like Nuuk, Sisimiut, and Tasiilaq. This shortage is driven by rapid urbanization, limited construction, and a lack of affordable housing options.  In Nuuk, waiting lists for public housing can extend up to 10 years for individuals seeking rental apartments.  The private rental market is scarce and often expensive as many of the apartments are rented out to companies rather than individuals, making it challenging for residents to find suitable housing.  Much of Greenland’s housing stock is outdated and in poor condition, with many buildings requiring significant maintenance and repairs.  A local shared with us that some families may have 11 people living in a small house as they wait for available housing.  Nuuk and Ilulissat have repurposed shipping containers to create quick housing options.  The containers are insulated, and include bedrooms, bathrooms, kitchen areas, living spaces, and lockers.  Only individuals with Danish citizenship or those who have had a permanent residence and registered address in Greenland for at least two years are allowed to acquire property or be allocated land.  We saw lots of apartment buildings being constructed in Nuuk and Ilulissat. 
  • A color code system was used at one time to distinguish buildings based on their function.    
  • There are 60 miles of roads in the country.  There are no roads between towns.  The ocean and the fjords provide the most extensive “highway” system in Greenland, which is why more Greenlanders own boats than cars.  In many of the small settlements, you will not see a single car, but there are plenty of boats tied up at the shoreline.  Travel between towns is by boat, plane, snowmobile, or dog sled.  There are only three stop lights in the country (all in Nuuk).  Helicopters are used in remote settlements and for medical and supply transport.  We read there are 6,500 cars in the country.  The legal driving age is 18 years old.  Cars are imported by boats from Denmark.  Toyota, Volkswagen, Ford, Nissan, Hyundai, Suzuki, Skoda are popular.  4x4s, SUVs, pickup trucks are common.  Compact cars are found where roads are plowed.  Electric vehicles are slowly entering the market but are limited by cold weather and charging infrastructure.  We read there is one Tesla in the country and another one on order.  Most of the cars we saw had some type of damage from scratches and dings to big dents.  Gas is expensive and there are only a few gas stations in each town.  Winter tires and heating systems are essential due to Arctic conditions.  A local in Ilulissat shared with us that winters are much easier to get around as water in areas becomes frozen and you can get around quickly with a snowmobile or ATV.  
  • The Greenlandic sled dog has been used for hunting and transportation for 5,000 years.  In Greenland all dogs north of the Arctic Circle must be Greenlandic sled dogs.  If a dog has been south of the Arctic Circle it cannot return.  In 2002 there were 4,700 dogs in Ilulissat.  Their diet consists of halibut and seal.  Ten to twelve dogs can drag a 661-pound sled.  Sled dogs are used for fishing, tourism, and leisure.  Owners are required to take good care of their dogs.  Once dogs turn five months old they must be chained.  The municipality ensures chaining sites are acceptable, that the dogs have water and are vaccinated.
  • Hydropower supplies much of the electricity in towns.  Diesel generators are used in remote areas.  Most water is sourced from rivers and lakes and distributed locally – there is no large-scale water network. 
  • The official language is Kalaallisut (Greenlandic) and it is a polysynthetic language – words are made up of many morphemes (the smallest units of meaning), often combining what would be an entire sentence in English into a single complex word.  For example:  qangatasuukkuvimmuuriaqalaaqtunga translates to “I’ll have to go to the airport.” Polysynthesis reflects a very different way of structuring thought and grammar than what we’re used to in languages like English. These languages are often Indigenous and endangered, and they contain deep cultural knowledge embedded in their structure. 
  • Danish is compulsory, offered as a second language starting in first grade.  Danish plays a major role in secondary and vocational education as a significant amount of instruction is delivered in Danish.  English is commonly taught in schools and many people we met spoke excellent English. 
  • The currency in Greenland is the Danish Krone (DKK).  The conversion rate when we were here in August 2025 was approximately 1 DKK = 0.1528 USD.  Everywhere in Nuuk took credit cards.  Cash is needed in some remote areas.  Gas prices convert to about $6.18 per gallon.  Groceries in Nuuk were about the same price as in Florida.  Our movie ticket cost $15 each and a large popcorn was $7.50.  The lodging and restaurant prices were about double the price of Florida. 
  • The main industry is fishing and seafood processing (shrimp, halibut, cod, Greenlandic crab) exported to Europe and Asia. Greenland has large deposits of iron ore, zinc, gold, uranium and rare earth elements.  Active mining is limited but expanding slowly due to high global interest.  Tourism is growing (hiking, dogsledding, kayaking, northern lights, icebergs and glaciers, indigenous culture).  Greenland hosts several international Arctic research stations to study glaciology, climate change and marine biology.
  • Hunting and fishing are important sources for local diets – fish (Arctic char, halibut, cod), seals (eaten raw, dried, or cooked), whale (eaten raw, boiled, or fermented), muskox and reindeer (often stewed or grilled), birds (ptarmigan and little auk), mattak (whale skin with a layer of blubber, eaten raw or frozen), dried fish or meat.  Inuit communities in the far north and east, where traditional subsistence hunting remains an important part of life also eat polar bear meat.  The meat is often boiled or dried and the fur is used for clothing.  Polar bear hunting in Greenland is strictly regulated by quotas and local laws to protect the species and ensure sustainable practices.  It is not sold in stores or exported; it’s strictly for subsistence or local use.  Legal drinking age is 18 years of age.
  • The fishing industry is a major employer, with many individuals involved in fishing, processing, and related activities.  A significant portion of the workforce is employed in the public sector, including government roles and publicly owned enterprises.  The average annual salary is around $56,000.  The top 10% earn about $112,000 annually.  The top 1% earns about $336,000 per year.  Despite relatively high wages, the cost of living in Greenland is also high, particularly due to its remote location and reliance on imports.
  • Denmark provides Greenland with an annual block grant, which accounts for roughly 20–25% of Greenland’s GDP and over 50% of the government’s budget.  Greenland’s self-rule government allocates this funding to sectors like education, healthcare, infrastructure, and public administration.
  • There is a free public education system for ages 6 – 16.  We spoke with a Filipino man who has lived in Nuuk for six years.  He is having his son complete online school from the Philippines as he feels children don’t learn in the local school system.  There is one university in Greenland, located in Nuuk, with approximately 650 students.
  • Greenland’s healthcare is free.  For advanced treatments, especially complex surgeries or specialized care, patients are often referred to hospitals in Denmark.  Medical evacuations by plane or helicopter are common due to Greenland’s rugged terrain and limited local facilities.  As of 2023, Greenland’s life expectancy stands at about 71.5 years (Denmark’s was 81.8 in 2023).  Smoking is very common in Greenland.
  • Tourism is growing across the country.  In 2024, 149,000 tourists visited Greenland (95,000 of them on cruise ships).  The majority of visitors are from Denmark, the United States and Germany.
  • Greenlanders tend to vacation in Denmark, Iceland, Norway, Sweden, Finland and Canada.
  • 85% of Greenlanders are Christians and part of the Evangelical Lutheran Church of Denmark (which is the official religion in Greenland).  Some Inuit spiritual beliefs and traditions still influence Greenlandic culture and storytelling. 
  • Greenland celebrates a mix of Danish, Christian, and local Inuit holidays: Good Friday, Easter Sunday & Monday, Ascension Day, Pentecost Sunday & Monday, Queen Margrethe II’s Birthday – April 16, First Day of Summer – April, Labor Day – May 1,  Constitution Day – June 5, National Day – June 21, Christmas – December 24 to 26, New Year’s Eve and Day – December 31 & January 1, Return of the Sun – January 13th.
  • Native land mammals include:  Arctic fox, Greenland wolf, muskox, Arctic hare, lemmings (small rodents), and reindeer.  Native marine mammals include:  polar bear, walrus, various seal and whale species. 
  • Approximately 3 – 5,000 polar bears live in Greenland.  The total global population is estimated to be up to 31,000.  60% of the population live in Canada.  Norway, Russia and Alaska also have polar bears. 
  • Greenland experiences relatively high rates of violent crime, particularly domestic violence, assaults, and alcohol-related incidents.  Property crimes such as burglary and theft do occur but are generally less common than violent offenses.  Alcohol abuse is a significant problem and contributes to many crimes, especially violence and disturbances.  Greenland has its own police force, but limited resources and geographic challenges make law enforcement difficult in remote areas.  The incarceration rate is high relative to its population, partly due to strict penalties for violent offenses and limited alternative sentencing options.  Greenland faces social and economic challenges that contribute to crime, including unemployment, mental health issues, and isolation.  Many communities have programs focusing on prevention and rehabilitation, aiming to address the root causes of crime. Approximately 1 in 5 children in Greenland have experienced violence or sexual abuse.
  • Suicide is a significant public health issue in Greenland, with one of the highest suicide rates globally. Recent data indicates that the age-standardized suicide rate in Greenland was 71.3 per 100,000 people in 2022, the highest among Nordic countries. This rate is notably higher than the global average of approximately 9 per 100,000.  High unemployment, poverty, and limited access to mental health services, especially in remote areas, exacerbate the situation.  The rapid modernization and loss of traditional Inuit lifestyles have led to cultural disconnection and identity crises, particularly among the youth. Alcohol and substance abuse are prevalent, often linked to mental health issues and contributing to impulsive suicidal behavior. The phenomenon of the “midnight sun” during summer months disrupts sleep patterns and can lead to increased impulsivity, contributing to higher suicide rates during this period.
  • Some of the benefits of living in Greenland:  it is home to the largest national park in the world with spectacular landscapes (fjords, glaciers, icebergs, mountains, and the Northern lights), the purest air and water in the world (Greenland has some of the cleanest environments in the world), opportunities to see whales, seals, muskox, reindeer, and polar bears in the wild, a peaceful (less noise and traffic) low-stress lifestyle, strong sense of community, hiking, kayaking, dog sledding, fishing, and snowmobiling, deep Inuit heritage (cultural language, art, music, storytelling, and traditional hunting practices).  We talked separately with a couple of Danish men living in Ilulissat and asked why they moved here and they both said to be close to nature.  They really like living here. Several people told us winter was their favorite season in Greenland.
  • A couple of locals told us we have to get outside of Nuuk to really experience Greenland – that Nuuk isn’t Greenland.
  • We were very surprised to learn that Greenland has mosquitoes!  And they can be very annoying in the summer months.  I like that there aren’t any weird creepy crawly bugs or frogs to jump on me. 
  • Businesses are mostly locally owned.  No US franchises.  There is a Danish owned furniture store. 
  • Towns felt similar to towns in Alaska. 
  • Denmark and Iceland remain the primary hubs for accessing Greenland year-round.  There are currently seasonal access points from Newark, NJ and Iqaluit, Canada. 
  • Obtaining a taxi in Nuuk to go to the airport in the early morning hours is challenging.  We could not use the app because we didn’t have a local Greenlandic phone number (our e-SIM is just for data).  We did reserve a taxi via an email but the driver didn’t show as there are limited drivers working early morning hours. 
  • There are lots of flight delays and cancellations due to weather.  A bigger airport is under construction in Ilulissat, which will allow for international flights to Copenhagen and the United States.  The current Ilulissat airport is tiny and packed with passengers from cancelled flights. Our original flight from Nuuk to Ilulissat was cancelled due to weather, so we arrived in Ilulissat a day later than planned.  Our original flight from Ilulissat to Nuuk on a Thursday (when we were flying to Copenhagen) was delayed due to weather and we were unable to get on a Friday flight.  We ended up flying to Nuuk on Saturday; some of the people on our cancelled Thursday flight were rebooked to leave four days later, on Monday.  Air Greenland helps secure lodging for passengers with cancelled flights, pays for the lodging, taxis, and provides the equivalent of $100 US per person for food per day.  Our taxi driver told us this is a law as many Greenlanders travel via planes and they can’t afford the extra expenses, plus the government wants to ensure everyone has shelter due to the climate.  We were aware of potential flight delays, so we allowed enough days on our original itinerary between flights which allowed us to catch our connection flight in Copenhagen taking us to our next destination.  Along with flights, the weather plays havoc with cruise ships.  There were several days that ships did not stop as scheduled.  Many excursions get cancelled (or rescheduled) due to weather.  Our B&B was supposed to be full the entire time we were in Ilulissat, but flights had been cancelled so guests never arrived.  A local shared with us that a passenger ship once got stuck in the ice and they had to wait five days to get assistance because of the remoteness of everything.
  • Greenlandic Coffee, referred to as “the whole of Greenland in one mug”, consists of Whiskey (representing the “rough” parts of the country: its men, its hunters, its fisherman and its rugged landscape), Kahlua (all the “nice” things: its women, its beautiful scenery and its animals), coffee (men and women coming together in the cold, dark polar nights), whipped cream (signifying the icebergs and glaciers in the country), Grand Marnier (the finishing touch, set alight before being poured on top, the flames mimicking the Northern Lights).  The making of it is theatrical. 
  • It is expected for everyone to remove their shoes in museums, homes (they provide indoor slippers), and gyms (we brought a pair of “clean” shoes to change into).  The museums provided seal skin slippers for you to wear.  I loved all the animal skinned clothing (knowing the animals were killed to feed locals first and all usable body parts are utilized after the meat).
  • Greenland is home to the toughest ski race in the world.  The Arctic Circle Race is a 3-day, 99-mile test of fitness, stamina and grit for cross-country skiers.  Competitors camp and cook for themselves for two nights, often in temperatures below zero. 
  • Greenland’s main research base, Summit Station, is located near the highest point of the ice sheet.  It is built on top of ice, not anchored to bedrock.  Therefore, it moves with the ice flow.  The station moves about 33 feet per year, so its GPS location is continually changing. 
  • Mike researched pickleball and asked several people about it.  No one had heard of it, so unfortunately Mike was unable to play in Greenland.
  • We didn’t see the Northern lights as we were there during the summer and the sky wasn’t dark enough at night. 
  • The baby carriages look like they are four-wheel drive, big tires and the carriage is fully insulated.
  • Some of our favorite memories from Greenland:  taking in the pure air and enjoying the silence while looking at all of the ice after our helicopter landed and while hiking the Blue and Yellow Trails; sitting around the campfire at the Qooqqut festival listening to the locals singing; hearing the glaciers and huge icebergs calving during our hike on the Blue Trail, meeting Aileen at Hangout Bistro (we wish we would have spent more time getting to know her).    

Where we spent our time in Greenland

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